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twobackpackz

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We set our alarm for 4:30 AM to get a head start on the Santa Cruz trek, which is in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range.  We walked 20 minutes to the colectivo bus station and hopped on the 5:30 bus.  After an hour we arrived in a small town called Yungay where we switched colectivos.  This was a long, dusty, bumpy, and dangerous 4 hour ride to a tiny town called Vaqueria.  We stopped along the way to pay the $20 entrance fee per person to get into the Huascaran National Park.  The ride had the best views of the mountain range and even a couple mountain lakes.  Once we arrived at the trail head we set off.  The beginning elevation was around 11,000 ft above sea level.  We were instantly greeted by a trail dog who instantly received the name Bandit after eating half my breakfast and then disappearing.  He joined us on and off the entire trip and was great company.  He truly believed that he would eventually catch a bird if he kept trying.  We were passed by about 4 groups of donkeys carrying camping supplies for the trekking companies.  It is very impressive how much they carry and for how long.  We saw one donkey laying down and was unable to get up because of the weight on his back.  Not sure why the two men were just sitting there staring at it instead of helping it(😠).  It took us 4 hours to complete the trek on the first day.  It was pleasant terrain, especially since we still seemed to be acclimating to the elevation.  You catch your breath and then 10 steps later you can't breath again.  We passed a couple tiny villages and many farm animals.  We ended the day at 12,400 ft.  When we arrived at the first camping area we scouted out a nice spot that had a view and some privacy away from the larger guided groups.  We set up camp and then went to the river to clean up.  It was freezing as expected.  We proceeded to make the worst spaghetti we have ever had in our lives.  Ever eaten gluten free noodles?  Well, it was about that bad.  We then made a nice fire and enjoyed it for a long while until one of the guides yelled out in Spanish "fires are prohibited".  I had a good laugh because Bart didn't hear what he said and smiled and waved at the man.  We put the fire out, watched a movie, and went to bed around 8 PM.  It was a cold one.  

For the record: Bart agreed that we would get two donkeys when we get our own house!

































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Here are 10 things we have missed while traveling, in no particular order:

  1. A quiet place to sleep: there have been very few instances where we have a nice quiet place to sleep.  We are always woken up by noisy bunk mates, barking dogs, roosters, children, or honking horns.  The buildings are all made with very thin walls and often the windows must be left open for fresh air or to cool the room down due to lack of air conditioning.  In three months we have only stayed in a handful of places with air conditioning.
  2. Normal plumbing: everywhere we have traveled thus far does not allow toilet paper or any other materials to be flushed.  You can imagine the way this makes the bathrooms smell.  It isn't pleasant.  
  3. Hot showers: when you book a hostel you just never know if you are going to get hot water or not.  In Central America you could almost be certain you wouldn't.  The first thing you do when you check out the bathroom situation is look at the shower heads.  If they have two electrical wires running to the shower head you know it's going to suck.  This means that if you turn the water on fully you will receive ice cold water.  If you want hot water you barely turn it on until you hear the zapping noise, then you wait for the trickle of scalding water to come out. Take your pick.  We have heard stories of people getting shocked by the water as well.  It does seem unsafe to have wires that close to running water.  Then there are the times when you get hot water, but is short lived.  
  4. Cold drinking water: drinking warm water is something we will never enjoy.  Ice is either not a thing because you can't drink the tap water or not sold at all.  Sometimes stores do not sell cold beverages because it costs money to run a refrigerator.  We try not to splurge on buying water anyway.  It seems like a silly thing to spend your money on for an entire year.
  5. Privacy: it feels like we are never truly alone.  There are always people around when you stay in hostels.  You can't relax in your bed because people are in and out all day.  The hangout areas are always filled with fellow travelers.  It's even hard to find a quiet enough place(with wifi) to call friends and family to have a private conversation.  Often we feel when we are talking to each other someone can always hear us.  As of lately we have taken more time researching hostels to find cheap private rooms.  We have also started using Airbnb to book private rooms within people's homes.
  6. Laundry: we try to not pay to get our laundry done very often, but it seems to be about 50/50.  If a hostel has a good area to hang clothes we wash our clothes in the sink or shower.  We miss how clothes feel after they have tightened up in the dryer.  Even when we pay to have it done, it never seems to smell like they use laundry soap.
  7. Good breakfast:  we have yet to find a country that serves a good breakfast.  We are unsatisfied by the options.  They do not usually serve meat with breakfast unless you want to pay the overpriced charge for it.  We haven't had good bacon since we left.  I also miss my Dunkin Donuts.  It's shocking how hard it is to get a good cup of coffee.  Take today for instance, I ordered coffee with milk.  I received half a cup of hot water, half a cup of dark, bitter coffee, and half a cup of hot milk.  It just doesn't make sense.
  8. Independence:  we are always relying on public transportation.  We leave when the bus leaves. There are so many times when we are on a bus ride and see something we would love to stop and do or take a picture of.  If you have a stomach ache, you have to wait.  If you're dizzy from the crazy winding roads, too bad.  You take for granted having your own car and coming and going as you please.  A lot of people in this world do not have this luxury and never will.  When we return to South America after we visit home we are going to buy an over landing vehicle to finish the country.  
  9. Safe food: you never know what is going to make you sick and it has happened often to both of us.  It makes you reconsider everything you want to eat.  Some of the best food is the street food, but it is hard when you see the same lady preparing your food, petting the stray dog, and exchanging money; all without washing their hands.  Hygiene is not something that is nationwide and mostly because they do not have the proper plumbing or education.  This annoyance is mostly on the days before travel or days of travel.  You do not want to chance being on an 8 hour bus ride and needing to go #2 or to throw up.  We try to stick to packaged food, but quickly grow tired of crackers, cookies, chips, and candy.
  10. Living out of backpacks: we are constantly packing and unpacking.  Our bags are stuffed to the brim so if you need something you have to take everything out.  Also, when we got hiking and camping we have to put a lot of stuff in plastic bags and store them at hostels.  When we return it's an entire ordeal getting things back where they need to be for everything to fit.  It's also hard to travel with that much stuff strapped to your body.
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We arrived at 5 AM in Huaraz, Peru.  We took a cab to Andescamp Hostel.  We couldn't check in until noon so we sat there in the cold until breakfast.  We went to California Cafe and had the best breakfast we have had in so long.  We haven't had good bread since we left.  It is especially bad in South America.  It is always dry, sweet, and never toasted.  This cafe had homemade bread and it was toasted.  On top of that they had salted butter and homemade strawberry jam.  We have only been served margarine in South America.  After breakfast we went back to the hostel to talk to them about renting some equipment for the Santa Cruz trek.  We needed a camping stove, pot, and a better sleeping bag.  When we come back to South America we will be more prepared for these longer treks, but this works for now.  We will leave tomorrow morning for a 4 day, 3 night trek in the Cordillera Blanca.  After that we will make our way to Lima and get on a flight back to the states.  We went to a local grocery store and stocked up on food for the trek.  Then we walked through the local market.  The seafood looked really good, but we cannot cook at this hostel so we just browsed.  We went to Chili Heaven for a late lunch/early dinner.  It was an Indian, Mexican, and Thai restaurant and it was amazing!





































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Bart and I are about to embark on a great world adventure! After many long months of saving, we have finally bought a one way ticket to Belize. Over the next year or so we will work our way through Central America, South America, Southeast Asia, and Europe.

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